93 4.3L w/ factory towing package -- electrical question - Dodge Durango Forum - Forums and Owners Club!
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Old 08-05-2013, 02:56 PM
msturtz msturtz is offline
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Default 93 4.3L w/ factory towing package -- electrical question


I have a 93, 4.3L, with the factory towing package. We're getting a small popup
camper (97 Viking, craigslist find). The camper currently does *NOT* have a
battery of its own, but I'm going to change that -- planning on adding a Costco
group-27 marine/starting in a battery box on the tongue (a-frame) of the

The trailer has a 7-blade (round) connector. The Durango's factory towing
package gave me the 7-blade (round) connector, and included an adaptor down to
4-pin (flat), and also a short pigtail used for installing a trailer brake
connector, which this trailer doesn't need. (Separate question -- what does the
middle "auxiliary" pin do on the 7-blade round connector?)

Question: Is there any isolation between the battery/alternator and that 12V
line at the trailer hitch? If I just drop a battery on the trailer and wire it
inline, won't the truck battery (Optima red-top) and the trailer battery
discharge each-other (engine stopped) or blow the fuse/breaker (engine running,
trailer battery discharged)? Does that 12V line turn off with the ignition
(prevents the first problem)?

If, as I suspect, that 12V line is always-on, fused at 20-ams or something,
what/where would be the correct way to fix that? Presumably I would need a
battery isolator under the hood, or at the very least an ignition-controlled
relay/solenoid that disconnects power to the trailer when the engine isn't

Any help or suggestions appreciated. We don't actually have the trailer yet,
picking it up Wednesday evening. I obviously haven't looked much at its wiring,
and on Durango I've only ever used the 4-pin adaptor.


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Old 11-10-2013, 04:59 PM
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rkmdogs rkmdogs is offline
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As an ol' time RV'er, I'll try to answer your questions as best I can.
First, do you have the factory owners manual? There is a page in it which shows the wiring color codes and I don't remember if it shows pin position or not.
The middle pin on a 7-blade is used for one of two things --- it can be an additional ground depending on where its wire goes, or it is used for back-up lights on the trailer.
Again, you have to see where the attached wires go.
2.- NO, there is no isolation between the truck battery and the one on the trailer,
UNLESS you add one! You can do this with a relay circuit that you install on the truck, or a commercial battery isolator that you can get from an RV store. A diode type device is what is needed, to allow current to flow only from the truck to the RV.

Your truck battery is not fused, it has a circuit breaker to prevent shorts, which resets
automatically when the damage is disconnected. They are NOT wired thru the ignition switch. That is what you can do with a relay ---- switch it thru the ignition, so that the
trailer battery cannot draw from the truck when it is off.
Most RV stores that have service departments can do all of this for you.
Camper World is the nations biggie chain that has service facilities, if one is near you.
BTW, depending on the weight of that RV trailer, Federal Law says that if it is over 1500 lbs, you must have brakes on it, and some States require brakes on any RV trailer!
It is not a bad option to include if just for your own piece of mind.
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Last edited by rkmdogs; 11-10-2013 at 05:02 PM.
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