The Alpine system on my wifes durango was lacking on the bass end, after research it appears they dedicate 100 watts to each of a dvc 8 inch sub. After realizing the papercone sub is of good quality I removed one channel after stuffing the enclosure, before deciding an additonal amp is required I decided to try a 12 inch 2ohm sub,the Alpine dvc is 2- 2ohm,using this sub channel,the bass was better but not loud enough to drop the eq to 0 to get rid of muddy bass from front 6x9s since I install car stereo, not much in my last years I had a 10x3 Sony subs in a q logic box, much to my surprise the1.6 ohm load was noticeably better, Alpine rolls the bass to the factory sub very low,60-80hz,but 100 watts is available,3 sony subs at 90db x3,is very efficent, and the weak spot is the oem sub, and enclosure,it still contributes but nothing deep,hope this info helps others my first post here, quite happy now the amp can be accessed through the rear bucket tray pulling it out you can see and feel it, must be class d as it never gets that warm,the output levels are to low on many cds.I have loaded this channel to 1 ohm with a 2omx2 10 inch,this played well also,but mutiple drivers,give better efficiencyJMO-Phil
Alpine system
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
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6 Posts
You're correct, the factory sub is very lacking. I added to Kicker CVR 12" subs in ported Comp box and 1200W Soundstream amp in addition to the factory alpine setup and it now has a well rounded, hard hitting, full sound like it should have had from the beginning. I give the Alpine mids and highs credit, they keep up well, just had to turn my amp back to find a nice balance of even sound through all levels of volume. Now it's super clean and hits you in the back when you need it to.
After a road trip with a pal,I have decided to give my sub more power,I will power 2 12" kickers in a sealed box with a Sony xm-1s, a great little amp,extremely powerful and efficient ,clean power as stated above on the bottom end should do it, mids and highs are good,not bad Alpine,but they should have dedicated more power to bigger subs,I am sure current drain is important in a fleet of cars and trucks,like lighter oil anything to save energy, hell the power steering is run off electrical power now!
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17 Posts
As another piece of advice, while you're waiting for upgrades to be completed, I suggest lowering the mid frequency on the equalizer (at least with the 730N). I did this two days ago and it has a made a night and day difference for both low frequency response (no more muddy 6x9's) and crisper vocals. Give it a shot, I know you'll all agree. Of course, this doesn't negate the fact that this "premium" sound system really is anything but. Additionally, if anybody is willing to absorb the costs JL Audio makes a direct replacement for the entire sub enclosure. It costs $1000 but a 13.5" JL Audio with its own dedicated mono amp, with replacements in all the doors, is bound to be a vast improvement for all audiophiles. I found some decent deals on Crutchfield's site...just FYI!
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6 Posts
I gave up on the "premium" sound system a good while ago-I agree it's not so premium.
700 amp JL Audio amp installed, replaced the factory sub with a JBL unit with a separate bass volume knob installed on the console and had a CleanSweep audio mixer installed. Also replaced the 4 door speakers with Infinity Reference speakers.
Sounds awesome now.
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700 amp JL Audio amp installed, replaced the factory sub with a JBL unit with a separate bass volume knob installed on the console and had a CleanSweep audio mixer installed. Also replaced the 4 door speakers with Infinity Reference speakers.
Sounds awesome now.
Are you getting any headlamp dimming?My 500wrms Sony amp draws enough juice to dim them.I gave up on the "premium" sound system a good while ago-I agree it's not so premium.
700 amp JL Audio amp installed, replaced the factory sub with a JBL unit with a separate bass volume knob installed on the console and had a CleanSweep audio mixer installed. Also replaced the 4 door speakers with Infinity Reference speakers.
Sounds awesome now.
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27 Posts
Interested in seeing additional pics of this setup. I agree with all others that the factory Apline system lacks lows (bass), but in my case I want to retain the factory look. If i can replace the sub with a better quality 8" or make a 10" fit, and wire another amp into the factory system, I'd like to go that route. I'm familiar with car audio, but not with the location of all the components on the new Durango. Further insight would be great!I gave up on the "premium" sound system a good while ago-I agree it's not so premium.
700 amp JL Audio amp installed, replaced the factory sub with a JBL unit with a separate bass volume knob installed on the console and had a CleanSweep audio mixer installed. Also replaced the 4 door speakers with Infinity Reference speakers.
Sounds awesome now.
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27 Posts
Look into adding a capacitor (1 farad) should be enough. I had a 600w RMS/1200w max amp on my old Neon, and with capacitor, no issues ever.
Forget about finding another 8 inch sub that will fit its dual 2 ohm paper,not bad for an 8,you either need more surface area,bigger sub or more excursion,a lot of power. I sunk a 12 inch pioneer dvc Champion and Sony amp with a 2.0 cap,no more dimming,Dodge claims a 170 amp alt. , kinda wondering about those specs.
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111 Posts
Help
Any of you guys have instructions on the mods. I just ordered two amps. One for the sub and the other a 4 channel for the door speakers. I've been researching on how to go about it and it is very confusing. I need a little help trying to figure this thing out. I am also having difficulty finding the wiring diagram for the stock 9 speakers system. I ordered a 8" kicker sub. All I am looking for is a bit more volume and bass. I don't want to blow the windows out just yet. I am going to give this new 8" a try before I get anything bigger. I just want to keep my Hemi D as close to stock as possible.
I also found this amp diagram on another forum but I believe that is a for a dodge pickup because the person stated that the amp was located under the dash and the Durango (2012) is located in the rear driver side. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Original post
http://www.**************/forums/showthread.php?t=353885
Here you go! This is for the two plugs on the amp under the dash. I completely bypassed my factory amp and cut and tied into the wiring at the amp. My left and right dash speakers and rear headliner speakers are powered from my head unit and the door speakers are powered from my 4 channel amp behind the rear seat. Center dash speaker was left unhooked.
22 pin connector
left to right / top to bottom
pin 1 large black wire with orange stripe (assumed ground for the amp)
pin 2 white with gray stripe (bus input)
pin 3 white with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 4 not used
pin 5 not used
pin 6 green with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 7 green with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 8 gray with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 9 gray with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 10 not used
pin 11 not used
pin 12 not used
pin 13 not used
pin 14 gray with light green stripe (RH dash speaker +)
pin 15 gray with dark green stripe (RH dash speaker -)
pin 16 gray with yellow stripe (LH dash speaker +)
pin 17 gray with no stripe (LH dash speaker -)
pin 18 green with brown stripe (LH headliner speaker -)
pin 19 green with blue stripe (LH headliner speaker +)
pin 20 gray with white stripe (sub -)
pin 21 green with white stripe (sub +)
pin 22 large yellow wire with red stripe (assumed powerfor the amp)
16 pin connector
left to right / top to bottom
pin 1 gray with purple stripe (LH front door -)
pin 2 gray with yellow stripe (LH front door +)
pin 3 green with purple stripe (RH front door -)
pin 4 green with yellow stripe (RH front door +)
pin 5 green with brown stripe (sub +)
pin 6 gray with brown stripe (sub -)
pin 7 gray with dark green stripe (LH rear door +)
pin 8 gray with light green stripe (LH rear door -)
pin 9 green with yellow stripe (RH rear door -)
pin 10 green with gray stripe (RH rear door +)
pin 11 gray with no stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity...I left it stock)
pin 12 gray with orange stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity.. I left it stock)
pin 13 yellow with gray stripe (RH headliner +)
pin 14 green with no stripe (RH headliner -)
pin 15 not used
pin 16 not used
__________________
2012 Durango Alpine System
The Premium Alpine System speaker system includes speakers in 10 locations.
Any of you guys have instructions on the mods. I just ordered two amps. One for the sub and the other a 4 channel for the door speakers. I've been researching on how to go about it and it is very confusing. I need a little help trying to figure this thing out. I am also having difficulty finding the wiring diagram for the stock 9 speakers system. I ordered a 8" kicker sub. All I am looking for is a bit more volume and bass. I don't want to blow the windows out just yet. I am going to give this new 8" a try before I get anything bigger. I just want to keep my Hemi D as close to stock as possible.
I also found this amp diagram on another forum but I believe that is a for a dodge pickup because the person stated that the amp was located under the dash and the Durango (2012) is located in the rear driver side. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Original post
http://www.**************/forums/showthread.php?t=353885
Here you go! This is for the two plugs on the amp under the dash. I completely bypassed my factory amp and cut and tied into the wiring at the amp. My left and right dash speakers and rear headliner speakers are powered from my head unit and the door speakers are powered from my 4 channel amp behind the rear seat. Center dash speaker was left unhooked.
22 pin connector
left to right / top to bottom
pin 1 large black wire with orange stripe (assumed ground for the amp)
pin 2 white with gray stripe (bus input)
pin 3 white with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 4 not used
pin 5 not used
pin 6 green with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 7 green with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 8 gray with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 9 gray with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 10 not used
pin 11 not used
pin 12 not used
pin 13 not used
pin 14 gray with light green stripe (RH dash speaker +)
pin 15 gray with dark green stripe (RH dash speaker -)
pin 16 gray with yellow stripe (LH dash speaker +)
pin 17 gray with no stripe (LH dash speaker -)
pin 18 green with brown stripe (LH headliner speaker -)
pin 19 green with blue stripe (LH headliner speaker +)
pin 20 gray with white stripe (sub -)
pin 21 green with white stripe (sub +)
pin 22 large yellow wire with red stripe (assumed powerfor the amp)
16 pin connector
left to right / top to bottom
pin 1 gray with purple stripe (LH front door -)
pin 2 gray with yellow stripe (LH front door +)
pin 3 green with purple stripe (RH front door -)
pin 4 green with yellow stripe (RH front door +)
pin 5 green with brown stripe (sub +)
pin 6 gray with brown stripe (sub -)
pin 7 gray with dark green stripe (LH rear door +)
pin 8 gray with light green stripe (LH rear door -)
pin 9 green with yellow stripe (RH rear door -)
pin 10 green with gray stripe (RH rear door +)
pin 11 gray with no stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity...I left it stock)
pin 12 gray with orange stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity.. I left it stock)
pin 13 yellow with gray stripe (RH headliner +)
pin 14 green with no stripe (RH headliner -)
pin 15 not used
pin 16 not used
__________________
2012 Durango Alpine System
The Premium Alpine System speaker system includes speakers in 10 locations.
- One 8.89 centimeter (3.5 inch) diameter speaker is installed in the center of the instrument panel under the defroster grille (1).
- One 2.54 centimeter (1 inch) silk dome tweeter speaker is located in the mirror flag area of each front doors (2).
- One 15.2 X 22.9 centimeter (6 X 9 inch) speaker is located in each front door (3).
- One 16.5 centimeter (6.5 inch) diameter speaker is located in each rear door (4).
- One 20.3 centimeter (8 inch) subwoofer located in the right side quarter panel (5)
- One 6.35 centimeter (2.5 inch) diameter speaker is installed in each of the D-Pillars (6).
- The Premium Alpine speaker system also includes a 506 watt amplifier located in the left side quarter panel (7).
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111 Posts
Alpine System MOD
Here is my Alpine System MOD. Is not a top of the line System but the sound is allot better than the stock system. My mod includes two additional Amps, the door speakers and a new 8" Subwoofer.
I decided to place the new amps on top of the small storage area at the rear. I am still able to access the small compartment. I looked for other places but it seems like dodge used every inch of the Durango for other things. I was also thinking about installing them inside the small rear compartment but I was worry about the heat that they will generate.
I am not going to go into too many details about the install just the basics.
Moderators: I am not sure if product links are allowed. I am posting them to make it easy for others. If they are not allowed please feel free to delete them. I purchased most of my items from Crutchfield but you'll be able to find similar items in places like Amazon and Newegg.
Items used:
Alpine MRP-F300 - Door Speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPF300/Alpine-MRP-F300.html?tp=115
Alpine MRP-M500 - Subwoofer
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM500/Alpine-MRP-M500.html?tp=115
Kicker 40CWRT81 (Subwoofer 8")
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWRT81/Kicker-40CWRT81.html
Rockford Fosgate Prime R169X3 - Front Doors
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R169X3/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R169X3.html?tp=91
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1525X2 - Rear Doors
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1525X2/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1525X2.html?tp=97
Don’t forget that you will need two amp wiring kits. The kits come with everything you’ll need and are not that expensive. I use a 8 Gauge for the F300 (Speakers Amp) and a 4 gauge for the M500 (Subwoofer Amp)
The good thing about Crutchfield is that they included two sets of Metra 71-050 Speaker Wiring Adapters (Free) to make it a plug and play type of installation. Well, almost. One thing that I found and almost missed is that the rear speaker’s connectors don’t match the harness. If you get them you will see what I mean.
On the harness the bigger plug is for the Positive and the smaller for the negative but on the rear speakers is the opposite so I had to cut the connectors and solder them to the speakers.
Also included for free with my Crutchfield order, Scosche SAC-656 Speaker Mounting Brackets. The Durango OEM rear speakers are 6.5” and my new rear speakers are 5.25” so the adapter made everything a lot easier. You still need to do a bit of tweaking to make everything fir just right. They also included a Scosche SA-69 Speaker Mounting Brackets to use on a 6- ½ opening but my front speakers were a perfect fit so I did not use them. They were also free so I am not complaining.
To do my installation I ran the 4 gauge (Positive) from the battery (located under the passenger seat). Don’t forget that you need an inline fuse (I used a 60 amp) near the battery. My inline fuse is approx 6” from the battery. I am spliting the power from the 4 gauge to a 4 and 8 gauge with a distribution block. Some people place the distribution block near the battery and run two separate wires to each amp but since I am only pushing the speakers and an 8” sub is more than enough. I don’t like my windows to rattle; I just wanted a little volume and just enough Bass to make it sound as it should from factory.
I’ve seen mods were the stock amp was completely bypass but since I wanted to keep things simple I took the signal from the stock Amp front and rear door speakers (amplified signal Output) to the Alpine F300 4 channels. To run the subwoofer I connected an RCA patch cable from the F300 Subwoofer Preout to the M500. Then connected the new 8” subwoofer to the amp with new speaker wire. The stock sub wiring harness was not use.
The new kicker 8” Sub is a bit smaller than the stock. The original holes on the plastic stock enclosure will not work. I centered the Sub and made new holes for the installation. The stock Sub screws will not work with this sub.
By not bypassing the stock amp I am still able to use the door tweeters and the D-Pillar speakers. The 8” Kicker is 1ohm dual voice. You need to wire the dual voice in series to get 2 ohm. Don’t worry, it comes with a manual and is super simple to do.
I needed a way to protect the Amps when I use my cargo area, so this is what I made out of ¾ plywood. As you can see the middle support is shorter, allowing me access to the storage compartment. I covered it with fabric to give it a cleaner look. The fabric was very cheap, at around 6 dollars for two yards.
Below is the 2012 Durango stock Alpine wiring diagrams and the radio. I have the 730N RHR. I did not make it in order (1 -16 or 1-22) because IMO is confusing when you are trying to find and cut wires. I made it based on the speaker location. I hope is simple enough.
I also made a Diagram using MS paint of the wiring and the speaker’s location. It is very detailed but I am not sure if it is clear enough on the forum. If you want a file that you can zoom in and out, send me a private message and I will email it.
Door panel removal instructions....
Here is my Alpine System MOD. Is not a top of the line System but the sound is allot better than the stock system. My mod includes two additional Amps, the door speakers and a new 8" Subwoofer.
I decided to place the new amps on top of the small storage area at the rear. I am still able to access the small compartment. I looked for other places but it seems like dodge used every inch of the Durango for other things. I was also thinking about installing them inside the small rear compartment but I was worry about the heat that they will generate.
I am not going to go into too many details about the install just the basics.
Moderators: I am not sure if product links are allowed. I am posting them to make it easy for others. If they are not allowed please feel free to delete them. I purchased most of my items from Crutchfield but you'll be able to find similar items in places like Amazon and Newegg.
Items used:
Alpine MRP-F300 - Door Speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPF300/Alpine-MRP-F300.html?tp=115
Alpine MRP-M500 - Subwoofer
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM500/Alpine-MRP-M500.html?tp=115
Kicker 40CWRT81 (Subwoofer 8")
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWRT81/Kicker-40CWRT81.html
Rockford Fosgate Prime R169X3 - Front Doors
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R169X3/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R169X3.html?tp=91
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1525X2 - Rear Doors
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1525X2/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1525X2.html?tp=97
Don’t forget that you will need two amp wiring kits. The kits come with everything you’ll need and are not that expensive. I use a 8 Gauge for the F300 (Speakers Amp) and a 4 gauge for the M500 (Subwoofer Amp)
The good thing about Crutchfield is that they included two sets of Metra 71-050 Speaker Wiring Adapters (Free) to make it a plug and play type of installation. Well, almost. One thing that I found and almost missed is that the rear speaker’s connectors don’t match the harness. If you get them you will see what I mean.
On the harness the bigger plug is for the Positive and the smaller for the negative but on the rear speakers is the opposite so I had to cut the connectors and solder them to the speakers.
Also included for free with my Crutchfield order, Scosche SAC-656 Speaker Mounting Brackets. The Durango OEM rear speakers are 6.5” and my new rear speakers are 5.25” so the adapter made everything a lot easier. You still need to do a bit of tweaking to make everything fir just right. They also included a Scosche SA-69 Speaker Mounting Brackets to use on a 6- ½ opening but my front speakers were a perfect fit so I did not use them. They were also free so I am not complaining.
To do my installation I ran the 4 gauge (Positive) from the battery (located under the passenger seat). Don’t forget that you need an inline fuse (I used a 60 amp) near the battery. My inline fuse is approx 6” from the battery. I am spliting the power from the 4 gauge to a 4 and 8 gauge with a distribution block. Some people place the distribution block near the battery and run two separate wires to each amp but since I am only pushing the speakers and an 8” sub is more than enough. I don’t like my windows to rattle; I just wanted a little volume and just enough Bass to make it sound as it should from factory.
I’ve seen mods were the stock amp was completely bypass but since I wanted to keep things simple I took the signal from the stock Amp front and rear door speakers (amplified signal Output) to the Alpine F300 4 channels. To run the subwoofer I connected an RCA patch cable from the F300 Subwoofer Preout to the M500. Then connected the new 8” subwoofer to the amp with new speaker wire. The stock sub wiring harness was not use.
The new kicker 8” Sub is a bit smaller than the stock. The original holes on the plastic stock enclosure will not work. I centered the Sub and made new holes for the installation. The stock Sub screws will not work with this sub.
By not bypassing the stock amp I am still able to use the door tweeters and the D-Pillar speakers. The 8” Kicker is 1ohm dual voice. You need to wire the dual voice in series to get 2 ohm. Don’t worry, it comes with a manual and is super simple to do.
I needed a way to protect the Amps when I use my cargo area, so this is what I made out of ¾ plywood. As you can see the middle support is shorter, allowing me access to the storage compartment. I covered it with fabric to give it a cleaner look. The fabric was very cheap, at around 6 dollars for two yards.
Below is the 2012 Durango stock Alpine wiring diagrams and the radio. I have the 730N RHR. I did not make it in order (1 -16 or 1-22) because IMO is confusing when you are trying to find and cut wires. I made it based on the speaker location. I hope is simple enough.
I also made a Diagram using MS paint of the wiring and the speaker’s location. It is very detailed but I am not sure if it is clear enough on the forum. If you want a file that you can zoom in and out, send me a private message and I will email it.
Door panel removal instructions....
remote turn-on?
Where did you get your signal for the remote turn-on for your amps? I have the Alpine 506W system in my 2014 and wish to install an EQ between the head unit and amp, but don't know where to get the remote turn-on signal.
Thank you for the awesome wiring diagrams, BTW! I hope they are the same for my 2014.
Where did you get your signal for the remote turn-on for your amps? I have the Alpine 506W system in my 2014 and wish to install an EQ between the head unit and amp, but don't know where to get the remote turn-on signal.
Thank you for the awesome wiring diagrams, BTW! I hope they are the same for my 2014.
Joined
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111 Posts
I left my 14 Citadel system factory. IMO, It sounds 10 times better than my old 2012. I am not sure about the radio pin out but it looks like dodge used the same setup. I could be wrong so please make sure or check other sources before following my install. They do have a site that you can the get pin out but they will charge 30 bucks for 3 days access. Since I am leaving my 2014 factory , I didn't bother with it.
In regards to the remote.. I used the 12V (Cigarette) in the middle console. Here is the link to my old setup.. I hope it helps..
http://www.durangoforumz.com/showthread.php?t=756
Thanks for the quick reply. Overall, I am pleased with the sound from the 2014, but the bass is actually overwhelming in certain songs at certain frequencies, and if I turn the eq down enough to compensate I lose practically all traces of 'thump'. So I picked up an EQ that I want to mount under the rear floor and started taking things apart just a little while ago. To my dismay, the wire coloring doesn't match. So I've been looking everywhere to actually purchase a wiring diagram, but even Mopar doesn't have one yet for the 2014. If you know of a place that does (even if it is $30 for 3 days), please let me know. I'm considering just going with the pin numbers but having a diagram would give me that warm fuzzy feeling that I am doing it right.
Thanks again. I never would have even found the amp or figured out how to access it without your pics.
Thanks again. I never would have even found the amp or figured out how to access it without your pics.
Joined
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111 Posts
Here is the link..
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx
The site is confusing to navigate, but you have to create an account and look for the 3 day subscription unless you are willing to buy the cd for $150.00. I am not sure if the CD includes everything based on the prices for other services listed there. You'll know what I am taking about once you start navigating the site.
CD.... https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/searchresults.aspx?search=2014+durango
3 Day... https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/searchresults.aspx?search=2014+durango
I hope you can figure it out. I can't remember how I did it for my 2012. Maybe you should call , just to make sure you get the right vehicle...
You will get the Wiring color codes and part numbers. For my 2012 I spent 3 days copying hundreds of files (One at a time). They won't let you download a specific group like wiring or engine etc. I made the diagram myself. I got what I could but 3 days is not enough if you want the entire car. I tried LOL.. good luck..
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2 Posts
Love the mods!!!
I love what you did to your Ride! I have the 2011 Durango Citidel and I love it! but it is whoafully lacking the bass response I am used to. I am going to add three amps and more subs. do you have the dimentions of the peice you made to cover the amps? Also, Do you know of a way to MOD the radio without buying the MYGIG? I'm sure there is a wire that switches to ground when the vehicle is in park. I only need to find that wire. Everything else on the unit is active while driving.
Thanks
Alex
I love what you did to your Ride! I have the 2011 Durango Citidel and I love it! but it is whoafully lacking the bass response I am used to. I am going to add three amps and more subs. do you have the dimentions of the peice you made to cover the amps? Also, Do you know of a way to MOD the radio without buying the MYGIG? I'm sure there is a wire that switches to ground when the vehicle is in park. I only need to find that wire. Everything else on the unit is active while driving.
Thanks
Alex
Joined
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27 Posts
I wonder how well the stock amp would rum one of my Kicker COMP VRs... I want to add more bass to the D, and I have an Alpine MRD-m-300 and 2 Kicker COMP VR 12s (Dual 2Ohm VC) that I've had in my previous 2 vehicles (my Tahoe, and my Avalanche)...
If the Stock amp will run it good enough, I could just build a new enclosure for one of my 12s and remove the stock sub/enclosure...
If the Stock amp will run it good enough, I could just build a new enclosure for one of my 12s and remove the stock sub/enclosure...
Joined
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111 Posts
Sorry Bigalphaone. I don't have the dimensions of the amp cover. Just look at my install and I am sure you'll be able to figure out where to measure. One measurement that I do remember is that the support legs were 3" high. To figured out the curved area, I use a large piece of cardboard, place it down and follow the trunk/compartment cover front edge . In regards to the wiring. You got me there. I got the info straight from TechAuthority. I have no idea if it is control by a single wire like you said or is control by the radio itself
911Boulder
When I did my 2012 I wanted more bass. The new sub was better but it wasn't perfect. To me the sound wasn't as good as it should have been. I believe it was due to the plastic enclosure. I am no expert about subs enclosures, but based on what I saw in the internet, there's an exact science to that. I even tried stuffing the enclosure as some suggested, but I didn't notice any change in the sound. I was also going to try to make a custom wood box to place in the same spot as the factory plastic enclosure but it turned out to be quite difficult. My other choice was the JL Audio Single Stealth box. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-478LjF6EAsg/p_13694529/JL-Audio-Single-Stealthbox.html
Nice design but I was not looking to drop 1K on that. That's when I decided to trade my 12 for the 14. One thing.... If you guys get a chance, just go to a dealership and listen to the 14 new system. The sub and enclosure looks identical but the bass and overall sound is 100% better. No need to change anything. Maybe tomorrow I will go back in there just to see if the amp is different. Maybe it was just a matter of tweaking the amp firmware the radio or a combination of both but dodge dropped the ball on the 2011/2012 models (IMO). I don't know if all 14 radios are the same setup. I have the full system with the Blu-ray and Dual DVD display with surround.
Joined
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26 Posts
Interesting setups. I am especially interested in the use of the JL cleansweep unit to achieve RCA preouts while maintaining premium stock head unit and amp. I never keep stock HU's, but this Rango has a pretty nifty one. And yes, I think that staying stock on deck might help keep thieves away.
As far as headlight dimming goes, if you are dimming off 500w off a truck batt/alt that tells me that your wiring is not up to snuff to handle peaks. Could be improper connections/ground or it could be insufficient guage wire (wire too skinny.)
Now, this is all speculation based on my 10+ years of car audio experience. The one thing that I CAN say for certain: the only way to truly get rid of dimming is to upgrade your big 3 ground wires under the hood, upgrade your alt if it is not at least the 160a model for the Rango, and add a second battery (usually by your amps in back, unless u got lots room under hood) on a battery isolator circuit. Your amps will be powered by the 2nd battery and the rest if truck will be powered off the old battery, as before. Your alternator charges both batteries and the isolator circuit prevents the batteries from drawing from each other.
Not having your amps on same circuit as rest of truck = no dimming, EVER!
As far as headlight dimming goes, if you are dimming off 500w off a truck batt/alt that tells me that your wiring is not up to snuff to handle peaks. Could be improper connections/ground or it could be insufficient guage wire (wire too skinny.)
Now, this is all speculation based on my 10+ years of car audio experience. The one thing that I CAN say for certain: the only way to truly get rid of dimming is to upgrade your big 3 ground wires under the hood, upgrade your alt if it is not at least the 160a model for the Rango, and add a second battery (usually by your amps in back, unless u got lots room under hood) on a battery isolator circuit. Your amps will be powered by the 2nd battery and the rest if truck will be powered off the old battery, as before. Your alternator charges both batteries and the isolator circuit prevents the batteries from drawing from each other.
Not having your amps on same circuit as rest of truck = no dimming, EVER!
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