[Loud05Rango]

It should be mentioned that capacitors aren't meant to prevent dimming. This is an improper use that has proliferated in the car audio market. It is akin to slapping on a bandaid when you need stitches. It is not proper, sure it may SEEM to work at first but in the end you could be making matters worse.

Dimming = electrical system can't keep up.

Adding cap means you have stored power for when system can't keep up with is then released so as to maintain a more uninterrupted supply of juice. Now, what happens after a monster dynamic bass hit which causes your cap to discharge to maintain the power level to amp? Those of you who said 'well now the alternator that had troubles keeping up with the amp draw must now keep up with amp draw WHILE recharging the cap!' are absolutely correct. Large farad caps are almost, if not entirely useless in car audio.

/end rant

 

[Bigalphaone]

plse send me the diagram so i can see more details of the connections

[email protected]

 

[Turborusty]

I'm curious, are all of you cutting the factory wiring at the factory amp and splicing in there? I'm looking for somewhere to locate a set of plugs to make an intermediate harness that doesn't require cutting anything.

Turborusty

 

[Loud05Rango]

I'm curious, are all of you cutting the factory wiring at the factory amp and splicing in there? I'm looking for somewhere to locate a set of plugs to make an intermediate harness that doesn't require cutting anything.

The best place to splice into existing wiring would depend on what you are ultimately trying to accomplish. I can tell you to look into "T taps" for splicing into existing wires without cutting...

 

[Turborusty]

I intend to take all existing factory amp outputs and convert them to line level signals and amplify them with aftermarket amplifiers. I will sum the front door woofers and tweeters together for a full range signal then using a set of separates with passive crossovers. I'll run a shallow 8" sub in the compartment under the driver's seat and a shallow 10 in a custom enclosure in place of the factory one....all under the cargo hatch.

I'll be using an Audio Control LC8i, likely along with a selection of micro-amps to power the system and not take up a lot of space. I just like to avoid cutting factory wiring when possible.

I may check the salvage yards to see if I can buy a factory amp with a length of the factory harness, just to use the plugs and make up an intermediate harness so I don't have to cut anything.


Turborusty

 

[Loud05Rango]

Nice! I was going to recommend either that very same unit or the JL cleansweep. Honestly I would just keep the factory amp where it is and tap into the outputs from it. You should be able to find a wiring diagram for the wiring color code, or just removing each door panel and speaker will show you what wire is to what...

I am going to be doing this same thing with the factory amp on my '05 in the next month or so. I wonder if the DSP unit will fit under the dash/in the kick by the factory amp...

 

[Turborusty]

Yes, I will be keeping the factory amp as that's where the surround sound processing is done.

Looking closer, I found a 12-channel OEM integration line level converter from Massive Audio, with dual option channel summing. The "FLATLINE II".....I may have a look at that, as it will allow all the factory channels to be converted with one unit and still sum the front door speakers together.

Turborusty

 

[brocke]

Hey blue659, I'm having problems with an OEM Integaration project on my 2016 Durango. I'm new on the forum and can't pm anybody yet. I really need your audio wiring schematic above. The one on photobucket is just too small to read the details. Could you post the full size one on here pleas.

 

[brocke]

Hi, thanks for responding. I've only posted a few times. The forum won't let me pm back to you.

It seem Dodge keeps their wiring pretty secret. My 2016 system seems to look identical to your drawing. My Durango RT is for the Canadian market. Only difference I can see is the sub is now inside the storage unit under the lid.

Do you have the 14 drawings too? Both would be invaluable for my installer

 

[eloym.psntx]

The Alpine system on my wifes durango was lacking on the bass end, after research it appears they dedicate 100 watts to each of a dvc 8 inch sub. After realizing the papercone sub is of good quality I removed one channel after stuffing the enclosure, before deciding an additonal amp is required I decided to try a 12 inch 2ohm sub,the Alpine dvc is 2- 2ohm,using this sub channel,the bass was better but not loud enough to drop the eq to 0 to get rid of muddy bass from front 6x9s since I install car stereo, not much in my last years I had a 10x3 Sony subs in a q logic box, much to my surprise the1.6 ohm load was noticeably better, Alpine rolls the bass to the factory sub very low,60-80hz,but 100 watts is available,3 sony subs at 90db x3,is very efficent, and the weak spot is the oem sub, and enclosure,it still contributes but nothing deep,hope this info helps others my first post here, quite happy now the amp can be accessed through the rear bucket tray pulling it out you can see and feel it, must be class d as it never gets that warm,the output levels are to low on many cds.I have loaded this channel to 1 ohm with a 2omx2 10 inch,this played well also,but mutiple drivers,give better efficiencyJMO-Phil

 

[eloym.psntx]

Sorry but I have a2012 dodge durango and I'm add I ng 2 subs and a amp I cannot find the remote amp w I re cN somebody help me out