Desperately need help!!!!

When you replaced the pads, did you remove the cap from the brake fluid resevrior before you pushed the cylinders in the calipers back? I have heard that not doing so can cause problems with brake functionallity. If the caliper is busted, the repair kits aren't too expensive or difficult to replace. You can get all the parts needed to completely rebuild the caliper for about $45 from Rock Auto. Or a complete refurb caliper for $70.89. $35 of that you get back as a core return.

I would start by redoing the brake pad install on the driver side to make sure the pad is seated correctly. After that, try pressing and releasing the brake. Then see if you can turn the rotor by hand. If you can't turn it, you may need to replace the caliper.

I did not take the cap off!!!! Do you think that if I redo it, and try that, that it may work?? I think I'll try that tomorrow, cause if that doesn't work, thursday I'll be getting a caliper even tho I can't really afford it right now, lol. Thanks for your time.

see my problem i had wit rear brakes markie mark

Pangracs123 said:

Hi there, I'm new to this forum. I have a 2004 Durango with the hemi. I recently changed the front brake pads. Took it for a test run after and the brakes work awesome, one problem, they seem to be dragging now, to the point that the drivers side starts smoking and that awesome smell of burning brake pads. I don't have alot of money to throw at it and was wondering if someone could help me with what to check or replace first?? I have read that it could be possibly calipers?? but they worked fine before i replaced the pads, also read that it could be the brake hydraulic lines. Please I need it back on the road as soon as possible. THanks for your time.

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could be the same problem i had with rear brakes markie mark check my thread

did you pull the slide pins, clean them, lube them and reinstall them or replace them? It sounds like they could be seized on one side or the other. New ones are best but taking some sandpaper or a wire brush to them before lubing and buttoning back up should be fine. I usually spray a lube/cleaner in there first to make sure there are no bits/rust slowing things down... If the piston itself is seizing and a clean/lube doesn't free it, the caliper is cheap enough to replace but make sure you do both sides...

sorry if this is late to the game - maybe it will help someone... just realized this was from the ice age - sorry...

A.